Vrindavani Vastra : The Legendary Fabric

By : Sabdi Bharadwaj

Source : The History Blog

Across centuries and millennia, some creations have made their presence, creating a wonderful history of their own.

Vrindavani Vastra, a piece of cloth woven over 450 years ago, holds the same importance for the people of Assam as well as the whole country. Whether for its sheer length or the Vaishnavite motifs on it or the fact that pieces of the original clothes are scattered in museums across the world, this tapestry bears huge cultural significance for the Assamese people. Vrindavani Vastra, literally meaning, the 'Cloth of Vrindavan', remains a masterpiece that continues to define the heritage and pride of an entire region.

The story behind this divine weave takes us back to the 16th century when Assam was pulsing with a vibrant cultural movement and spiritual reform. The creation of this tapestry is associated with one of the greatest figures in the history of Assam : Srimanta Sankardeva who led the Neo-Vaishnavite movement in Assam. Being an ardent devotee of Krishna, through the message of Neo-Vaishnavism, he established Krishna worship in a manner and on a scale that was unknown before him - through songs, dance, drama, and visual storytelling. Vrindavani Vastra was also such an attempt to cross social and cultural boundaries and bring devotion closer to the common people through weaving tales of Krishna on fabrics woven on Taat Xaal (Handloom).

Traditional Assamese Handloom

Source : Wikimedia

The Story Of The Vrindavani Vastra :

Creation of this tapestry goes back to the reign of king Naranarayana, the most powerful leader of the Koch Dynasty. The King and his brother Chilarai wanted the Vaishnava Saint to acquaint them with the leelas of Krishna in Vrindavana in a visual form. That was the beginning of the creation of a textile woven with the theme of the various incarnations of Vishnu and the exploits of Krishna.

The person in - charge of this project was a disciple of Shankardeva as well as highly skilled artisan , Mathurdas Burha Ata. According to the legends, this vast textile was longer than 180 feet. Woven with rich traditional silks of Assam - Muga and Paat - this masterwork featured brilliant colours and repeated patterns of figures, all centering upon Krishna. From 1565 to 1567, produced on a draw-loom in the highly complex Lampas technique, it took almost two years of consistent work by the skilled weavers of Assam . With guidance of Mathuradas and consistency of the workers, finally this divine piece of art was created in a place named Tatikuchi in Barpeta.

The Vrindavani Vastra has also gone through struggles of its own. This celestial tapestry was lost to the world for almost 85 years. It was stored, filed and catalogued under the category of 'Tibetan Silk Lampas' by the British Museum as Tibet was its last known place of origin. Only in the year 1992, after its proper inspection by Rosemary Crill, Curator of the Indian Department of London's Victoria & Albert (V&A) Museum, the huge fabric at the British Museum was re-identified as the Vrindavani Vastra from Assam.

Today, preserved pieces of the Vastra lies scattered in museums of the world. It is estimated that close to 20 fragments of textiles of this kind, going back to the 16th and 17th centuries, have survived. Besides British Museum, the pieces are now stored in Victoria and Albert Museum, Musée Guimet in Paris, Philadelphia Museum of Art and other museums in Los Angeles, New York and Wales.

A fragment of the Vrindavani Vastra showcased at the British Museum

The pieces are preserved safely in the museums, where its beauty is admired by visitors from across the world. However, true value of the Vastra lies in its roots i.e Assam. The eyes of those who haven't seen the Taat Xaal, haven't known Sankardev, or cannot comprehend the importance of the Paat -Muga silk; will never be able to truly appreciate the deep cultural and religious value of it to the fullest.

In a heartening development for the country, the British Museum is said to have agreed to grant the Vastra to Assam for a period of 18 months. Though it is not an easy process to bring the Vrindavani Vastra back to its homeland permanently, efforts have been made and we are hopeful.

The Vrindavani Vastra has journeyed across ages and lands, but it still holds the ethereal charm that it did once, 450 years ago. This, for a piece of fabric, is quite unique. It remains a pride of the state as well as the country and will continue its legacy.